Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Broke?


This hippest game in town this October 17th is the Fresno State U-Pick Organic days. From 9am-1pm load up on cheap organic veggies like arugula, turnips, and even some late season cherry tomatoes.

If you are really down, sign up for the Vermicomposting Workshop at 10am. For $20 you can get all the worms you and your happy urban farm can stand.

Location: Classroom at Fresno State Horticulture Unit (NE Barstow & Chestnut)

Friday, August 28, 2009

You've got a friend in me...


How do you know when someone loves you? For me, it’s when they share their last morsel of food… My husband frequently scrapes together little nubs of ham and peas or ravioli in butter sauce, hoists them onto a fork, clearing his plate to ensure I get one last nibble of deliciousness. Awww…

So I’ve got to give it up to my gal pal who recently brought me one, lonely caramel… the last in the box... from the stunning Sweet Revolution organic honey maple caramels.

So there I was, unraveling a nimble red string tangled around a hand printed newsprint box, to find a solitary golden gem twisted in waxed paper… inside held a dark, vanilla speckled masterpiece of sweet delight. The shadowy flavors of maple and mellow breath of honey were paired with an intense spike of salt to create a little pop-rock dance in my mouth. Rarely am I so satisfied by one little morsel. Then again, there was only one sacred nibble left.

Sweet Revolution Caramels

Thursday, August 27, 2009

I can eat a peach for hours...


When it comes to fruit, I can relate to the great lovers of the world… Like Casanova, Don Juan De Marco or Wilt Chamberlin, I know what it must have felt like to be pulled from one siren to the next, tugged by a scent, a hidden curve, or gentle give. When it comes to fruit, I am a fickle lover, merely entranced by the flavor of what is before me.

Fig season has just hit, and immediately, I am gorging myself on bright green Kalamatas. Her prickly fuzz scuffing my tongue before I nibble on her dainty seeds. Already, I have forgotten about last week’s lover, the freckled pluot and her blushed interior, aromatic and mild, spiked with a tart, snappy skin. By now, I scoff at the old hack the strawberry who was my breath of life only a few months back.

And alas, my heart will move on to another in a mere weeks time! My wandering eye is turned to the thought of biting into a perfumed Comice pear over a sink… As Adam Gollner, author of Fruit Hunters noted, “…the texture of softened butter filled with dripping juices.” And then there is the sneaky little November Satsuma orange, hiding her impeccable flavor beneath a wrinkled citrus dress. I am convinced, after many years of eating fruit, my favorite is always what is at the very peak of ripeness… she always wins out over the others.

Thank God I live in Fresno, no? This is the ground zero for fruit, with more California beauties than a David Lee Roth video. We are surrounded by not just a plethora of heirloom varietals, but farmers with passion for their produce, land, and community. And here’s the irony… often, our best fruit gets shipped to LA or SF to people who are real fanatics. We in the Valley are left with the paltry leftovers or worse yet, have our fruit shipped from farm, to distribution center, then to local grocery stores before we get a nibble.

This is why I am so excited about a new business in town, RipeNow, our first local fruit delivery service. Owner Jeremy Lane has searched the valley and discovered farmers who are focused on picking fruit at the peak of ripeness. “This fruit is not meant to withstand the rigors of commercial distribution or win some durability prize,” he says. “These are special farmers who compete for titles such as, most flavorful, juiciest, best color and most fragrant. [Our] goal is to support and encourage the heritage of these local farmers and facilitate greater exposure of this delicious fruit right here at home.”

The business model is pure: get amazing fruit into homes and offices on as an alternative to pretzels and 100 Calorie Packs™. Lane describes, “We go to local farms, pick up the ripe fruit, pack it into recyclable wood crates, deliver it to businesses and collect the previous drop off box for re-use. Then it’s back to the farm for more fruit.” Sweet and simple.

RipeNow is supporting farmers who produce rare and soul satisfying fruits that keep me swooning, weak-in-the-knees, waiting for that next stolen moment with something so fare. Scratch the idea of that grocery store peach, picked green and sitting around for days on end in cold storage… for that matter, scratch the Saturday morning peach you buy at the farmer’s market with the caveat to “let it ripen on the counter for a few more days”… RipeNow provides fruit picked and delivered at its peak ripeness… the same peaches a farmer would pluck for an afternoon snack. As stone-fruit expert Andy Martin describes, “The search for the perfect peach is elusive. It’s good for a moment, then a few days later it’s gone. It’s hard to grow. Nuances in humidity and temperature over one night can drastically effect quality.” Given these circumstances it’s a small miracle we ever get fruit. Providing good fruit, that elusive “pleasant resistance” of a peach, borders on heroic. Thanks Valley farmers. And thanks RipeNow.

RipeNow: www.ripenowonline.com or (559) 318-7473

Monday, July 20, 2009

July Americana: Red, White & Blueberry


It’s blueberry season again, and I can plow through a pint like a tub of buttered popcorn… easy. Here’s a way to sneak them into yet another meal, dinner. This recipe works great with frozen blueberries, so this is also a nice nugget to tuck away for mid-winter meals when y’all could use a little antioxidant punch.

Pork Tenderloin with Blueberry Dijon Glaze
Serves 4

1½ lb. pork tenderloin
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons grape seed or vegetable oil
2 cups frozen blueberries
½ cup water
4 tablespoons golden brown sugar
4 tablespoons good quality Dijon mustard (preferably with mustard seeds)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. To ensure even cooking, tuck in any thin ends of the pork tenderloin. Secure with toothpicks or cooking twine as necessary. Sprinkle pork loin with salt and pepper. In an oven-proof pan, heat oil on high. Add pork tenderloin and brown on all sides, about 2 minutes per side.

Place pork in the oven in the pan used for browning. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, add frozen blueberries, water and sugar. Mix well, crushing blueberries with a masher until texture slightly resembles chunky jam. Cook on medium heat until heated through and slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Pull off of heat and add mustard and rosemary.

After the pork has been in the oven for about 15 minutes, flip the loin and add the blueberry glaze. Put back in the oven. If at any point the glaze looks like it is starting to burn or get very thick (resembling taffy) add a couple of tablespoons of water to the bottom of the pan and continue cooking. Cook for an additional 15 minutes, or until the internal temperature of the meat reaches 160 degrees.

Remove the meat from the oven and let rest for 5 - 10 minutes (meat will continue to cook outside the oven until it reaches the internal temperature of 165 degrees). Slice and spoon glaze generously over pork medallions.

Serve with wild rice or couscous. Excellent with a side of sweet and sour red cabbage.

Friday, July 17, 2009

I Heart Coffee


The last time I ran into Leo Rios he was perched under a pop-tent on a lazy Saturday afternoon with his girlfriend Liz and their button of a toddler. The faint smell of coffee was in the air and customers lined up for cups of the best brew in town: Café Corazon.

Leo is a coffee roaster, and is, at the very least, passionate. In his spare time, he studies plantations and growing practices. On weekends he spends hours filling orders for small batches of coffee beans, hovering over the roaster, jotting down temperatures every thirty seconds. In addition, as the business owner, he is inundated with paperwork and phone calls. “If you are not prepared to have your business consume every part of your life, then you are not prepared to have a business,” he says.

Leo’s first roast experiment was years ago at home with a modified popcorn popper and some green coffee beans. “That very first roast left me in awe,” he confessed. It wasn’t long afterward he knew he had a business on his hands. After a short stint owning a full-fledged coffee shop on the Fulton Mall, Café Corazon now provides fresh roasted coffee beans to local customers. “People are learning the difference that a fresh roast makes,” said Leo. And he’s right.

My first cup was supreme. Dark and smooth. None of the tricks certain coffee companies use to substitute complexity for sheer smoky bitterness. It was almost immediately I realized I was screwed- all other coffee tasted inferior to me. I had found the best. The freshest. The Master. Right here in Fresno.

My second bag was an Organic Chiapas from the PROISCH CoOp. Leo painstakingly took into account the natural growing conditions and inherent flavor of the bean. It was roasted to bring out the subtle complexity instead of being burnt to a crisp. I savored… Chiapas has earthy notes and a wisp sweetness that I never could have tasted if it were charred. “When you sip on a cup of Organic Chiapas… you're tasting the true flavor of Mexican coffee. You're tasting the flavors of the rainfall, the earth, the sun and the hard work of the processing that has gone into it,” said Leo. Hats off to respecting the true nature of the beast.

Tasting a cup of coffee made with Café Corazon beans sells itself. Leo’s painstaking care and love of the process is evident in every sip. “It is my aim to bring out the finer aspects of a coffee and give the coffee connoisseur something to savor,” he says. And, Leo is a man with an abundant heart, corazon, for his coffee, his family, and our little spot in the world, “You help in any way you can to improve the community. This is what I saw my parents do growing up, and it's what we wish to do, be true Chicanos. I'm trying to help build a strong community.” We’ve got a true Fresno treasure on our hand people. Drink up.

Get yourself a bag!
Email Leo: elcafecorazon@gmail.com
Follow him on Twitter for the latest roasting info: @CafeCorazon
Pick up orders at Yoshi Now! On Broadway in downtown Fresno

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Beboparebop Rhubarb Pie


Until recently, the only rhubarb pie I had was from Marie Callender’s. It was, at best, unremarkable. And then, inspired by a documentary of Garrison Keillor at a rhubarb festival in Minnesota, I decided to try my hand at the real thing.

I was blown away. The filling is deliciously tart, swirled with caramelized sugar and buttery crust. And, technically, is it not a vegetable? Eat up.

Rhubarb Pie

Pate brisee pie dough (enough for a double crust)

1 ½ cups sugar
1 ¾ lbs. fresh rhubarb (cut into ¾ inch cubes)
¼ cup cornstarch
½ teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon orange zest
Pinch of salt
2 tablespoons butter cut into small chunks
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 small egg yolk
2 tablespoons Demerara sugar

Toss sugar, rhubarb, sifted cornstarch, cinnamon, vanilla, lemon, zest, and salt together in a large bowl. Set aside to allow juices of the rhubarb to soften the sugar.

In an oversized tart pan, form bottom pie crust, allowing 1 inch overhang. Add filling (it should be 1 to 2 chunks of rhubarb deep). Tab butter on top of filling. Form lattice crust and crimp edges of pie together. Glaze crust with heavy cream and egg mixture, careful not to allow too much to spill into filling. Sprinkle crust with Demerara sugar.

Place a pan under the pie to catch any drippings and bake at 425 degrees for 20 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 degrees and put on crust shield if necessary (aka crust is getting too brown). Bake for approximately 40 more minutes, or until center of pie filling bubbles. Cool 2 hours before serving.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

The Jam!


Alrighty Fresnans! It’s that time of year again when you, or someone you know, has been burdened by an abundance of produce. Your mom’s got a peach tree. Your roommate has been urban foraging for figs again. Or, God forbid, you know anyone who planted a zucchini this year. Fear not! Pencil in an afternoon of good ol’ fashioned canning and make your grandma proud.

Part I: Go Shopping. I always head for Fresno Ag, but really any hardware store will do. Get yourself a bunch of jars with lids and canning tongs. If you are really into recycling, you can always get old jars from thrift stores and merely purchase new lids.

Part II: Kitchen Prep: First off, put a damn radio in the kitchen for some music. Invite over a friend (even if they just sit there). Put on some light summer clothes to sweat in, and have plenty of cold beverages around (beer or iced tea really hits the spot). Clean out all your jars and lids in warm soapy water or the dishwasher. Keep them sterile!

Part III: Make yo’ Filling. I’ve done lots and lots of internet searches, but really it’s easiest to do this all by taste. Basically, dump your washed fruit into a large, heavy bottomed pan, add a squeeze of lemon and start cooking. At some point, I add in a ton of sugar (by a ton, usually about 1/3 of the volume of the fruit in the pot) and one crazy flavoring (lemon thyme, bay leaves, oolong tea, cloves, chilies). Keep cooking this all down until it is thick and sticks to a plate that’s been in the freezer for a while. It usually takes about 30 minutes. No need for that pesky pectin!

Part IV: Can it, Lady. Using a funnel, carefully spoon your finished jam into your clean jars. Leave about ½ inch of room at the top. Wipe down the rim of the jar with a clean paper towel. Carefully place the lid and ring on the jar and tighten. Once you get all your neat little jars sealed, boil them in a large pot of water (making sure they are fully submerged) for at least 15 minutes (you can Google specific processing times). Once they have cooled a bit, you can wait to see if the jars are sealed by the gentle “ping” they make when you tap the tops.

Part V: Give someone some love and pass it on. Don’t you feel good?!